Cuzco, Peru

Getting to Cuzco, my first destination in Peru, was a journey. I crossed the border from Chile to Peru in a "collective taxi." We went in a rundown car from the 80's, the three back seats and the two driver-side seats were all filled. It was a bit of a tight fit for me with my daypack and all. The taxi driver delighted in telling me about the burgeoning quinoa market in Bolivia and Peru, as well as the Peruvian delicacy of grilled guinea pig, served with head intact. He also claimed that the roadside grass and shrubbery in Tacna, Peru, was being watered with sewage water.

It was clear the second we crossed the border that Peru's economy is nowhere near as strong as Chile and Argentina's. As I fended off my new "friends," attracted by the appearance of a $ tourist $, I prepared for my bus trip from Tacna to Arequipa (followed by Arequipa-Cuzco the same day). The Peruvian bus system is generally of a lower quality compared to the impeccable service of its Southern neighbors, and there is little sense of central organization. The bus terminals seem a disorganized mess of competing autobus companies clamoring for your business. 

This is Cuzco:

Cuzco is a beautiful city. At one time it was the heart of the Inca kingdom, and the city is literally built on top of the ruins of their grand structures. In much of the city you can see that the bases of the buildings are made of the same stones that formed Inca residences and citadels from antiquity. 

Getting to see the culture and cuisine of Peru was great, there is so much history and the cuisine is so good and varied. There is no shortage of delicacies to have, whether it be classics like ceviche or new exotic dishes that delight the palette. It is fascinating to hear about the Inca and other pre-European cultures, and to witness locals speak Quechoa and other indigenous languages to this day. 

Cuzco is also located within a couple hours of Machu Picchu, and is the most common base for visiting the remarkable ruins. It is not the most straight forward task to arrange a trip to the ruins, so I was happy to be able to set it up from a centrally located place near the site itself.  

This cute looking vicuna leapt up and thumped my chest with its two front hooves shortly after the next picture. It was a shocking act of violence. I was told it was because I was wearing a red shirt, although I'm not sure I really buy the the idea it was provoked by the color red.

Chicharrones, with sides of corn, tamale, cheese, and a great yuca or other potato variety:

Rocoto relleno, delicious, spicy pepper filled with meat and vegetable. A regional dish from Arequipa, where I tried one as well later. Usually covered in cheese/cheese sauce, this one was deep fried instead:

Peruvian ceviche:

The pictures in this post are all from the center area, which was very nice to stay in. The city is just very beautiful. A negative part of it being the most common base for visiting Machu Picchu is that it is overrun with tourism; it gets a little oppressive to be approached constantly by people looking to sell you something every single second, and they are not easily dismissed. Still, there is so much to see and do in the city, and the sights are so consistently amazing that it is worth it. 

Wine country: Mendoza, Argentina

Quinta Rufino hostel, nice place, nice service:

Mendoza is a beautiful city on Argentina, it would be my final Argentinian location before I would cross the border to Chile. Mendoza is wine country, and the wine culture pervades. I got an amazing dinner at a fancy restaurant which included steak, salad, gourmet empanada appetizer, glass of wine, and dessert, all for about $8. Of course, I had to go on a vineyard tour. My tour group was comprised of Argentinians, Colombians, and Peruvians, and me, El Neoyorquino.

Pictures of Mendoza:

Its backwards, it says "Ciudad de Mendoza:"

There is a huge park in the city, at least equal Central Park size, which my guidebook said it was not safe to go to. As I watched the old ladies walking through and children eating ice-cream, I figured I would brave it and took a long hike to an outlook point on a small  mountain which afforded some great views of the city and surroundings. This is the park: 

Views from Cerro de la Gloria:

Next I would cross the Andes, and the Chilean border, to head to Santiago, Chile.

Cordoba, Argentina

Cordoba, Argentina's second largest city, is great. A college town simmering with energy and culture, the pace is hectic and the city is full of surprises. With the great metropolitan and cultural climate also comes one of those environmental climates which causes your eyes and nose to burn. The city is primarily on a grid setup, with a few cross-cutting streets, and a huge area in the center composed purely of pedestrian walkways and streets. I was chatting with my seat neighbor Lucas on the bus, shortly after we arrived his brother's girlfriend made us a delicious chicken and pasta dinner:

At night I went to a local bar which had some folkloric bands playing, I saw three bands. The crowd was relatively sparse at the beginning of the evening, but in Argentina it is most common for the big crowds to arrive at bars etc. around 2am, and by that time the place was packed. The headlining band was composed solely of a guitar/singer frontman, a classicly scraggly drummer hitting a freestanding bass drum with mallets, and a singing midget who switched between playing the mandolin, flute, and pan flute. The music was very good, and local Cordobans were dancing folkloric dances in front of the stage. Appearing to be a combination of indigenous tradition with heavy Spanish influence, it was amazing how they all knew how to do these fairly complicated dances, often appearing similar to a flamenco, with arms raised above the head and intricate stomping moves. Sometimes they would include "props" like scarves in their dances. Some of the dancers were very good, and I felt as if they were putting on a touristy show for the benefit of tourists, to showcase their culture. The thing is, I was blatantly the only foreigner present in the establishment, and they were not putting on a show for anyone apart from themselves. It was one of those cultural things which we lack in America, where everyone knows this cultural tradition which is hundreds of years old and shares it together in a celebratory manner. It is obvious that the youth is not leaving this cultural tradition behind. 

Pictures of Cordoba:

Argentinian fast food in a mall. Looks pretty fancy to me!

They have these!

Museum honoring organized workers and labor unions:

Museum of Fine Art: